Pakhiralay: The Heart of Sunderban

The land where tiger roars......

The world is gradually trying to restore normalcy after being hit by the pandemic. No matter how difficult the situation is, life still finds its way. The new year brought new hope to our lives in terms of COVID-19 vaccination but still there is a long way to go and there is no room for complacency. So, maintaining all the necessary precautions we set forth for our short trip to Pakhiralay in the Sundarbans. I have been there twice before but never got the time to explore the place the way I wanted to, so we decided to visit there on 13th March, 2021. Through my experience I have figured out that sudden plans are far more easier to execute than long planned figured out ones. We sat for a discussion on 11th of March and set forth on 13th March.

Unexpected adventure makes for a better story...

As per plan we gathered at Garia Railway Station on 13th March, 2021 at around 5.45 AM. Our train to Canning was scheduled on 6.03 AM and without further hassle we reached Canning at 7.40 AM. This time our group comprised of myself, Piangshuk (my younger brother), Gopal and Netin. 

Team Pakhiralay...

The last time I visited Canning was in 2014 and the area has changed almost completely since then. Well built roads have replaced the murky patches and the area has also become very much congested. With the recent action plans put forward by the Govt. of West Bengal for the development of tourism in Sundarbans, the footfall has increased remarkably. People from different parts of the country have developed interest not only in tiger sighting but also on the lives of the tribal people living there. Hence, the overall development of the place as a major tourist destination is highly noticeable. Even in 2014, it used to be a very remote place with little or no resources to sustain upon. Very few people visited this part of West Bengal due to the lack of basic amenities and proper fooding and lodging facilities. The situation is completely different now. However, one has to practise his bargaining skills a lot here without which they have to pay through the nose for everything in Sundarbans.

Embrace the detours...

From Canning we boarded a magic car for Rs 40 each person which took us to Godkhali on the banks of the Matla river. In Godkhali we had our breakfast with Kochuri & Alur Torkari alongwith an omlette each and then crossed the mighty Matla river to reach Gosaba on the other side. One might be surprised to know that to cross Matla river we have to board a motor boat driven by two to three people and boarded by numerous. Even a few bikes and cycles are taken on these boats. The best part of riding these boats are that they cost per person Rs 2 even today and offer a pleasant journey across the river. On reaching the ghat of Gosaba we took a tempo traveller for Rs 25 per head. We were four people and the tempos need five people to start their journey. Needless to say after waiting for a long time we did not find any other single person going Pakhiralay. When we asked the driver the reason we didn't find any other person, he informed that the localites out there don't use any transport apart from their own bicycles. Hence, only tourists use these travellers to reach their destination. Very rarely tourists come on solo trip and that too in Sundarbans. Hence we had no option but to reserve the entire tempo by giving one fare extra to reach our destination, Pakhiralay village.

There are far better things ahead than the ones we leave behind...

After reaching Pakhiralay we started searching for a suitable abode. The driver of the Tempo helped us find one with reasonable rates matching our requirements. Hotel Apanjan. We did the necessary formalities before checking in. Here I would like to mention that being a proper tourist place and to some extent the monopoly nature of their business, majority of the staffs of the hotel are very much business minded and a little rude to say the least and one has to be a good negotiator to deal with them.

As the temperature outside was soaring high, we decided to postpone our plans until evening and enjoyed an afternoon siesta after finishing a sumptuous lunch. For lunch we had Bhetki thalis. They have meal system there & the extra dish has to be taken solo. For example, if we take a Bhetki Thali we will get Rice, Dal, Aloo Bhaji and a Veg curry as required basis and a single piece of Bhetki fish alongwith its curry for once. The prices are, not to mention, a little too high as compared to other places. In late afternoon that day, strong winds started blowing and the locals predicted an approaching storm. Pakhiralay is situated just beside the Matla river very near to the confluence of Bay of Bengal & Matla ( erstwhile the Ganga) so the intensity of the heavy winds can be easily felt. However, it didn't last long and in the evening the weather turned placid and we resumed exploring the place.

If my friends live up-to hundred years I hope to live hundred years minus one day so that I never have to leave without friends...

That night our hotel arranged for a tribal dance program for the guests who arrived on boats and we enjoyed it thoroughly. After completing our dinner we chatted for long hours reflecting on our day long activities and discussing about the following day plans. Next day, Netin and I woke up early. We went for a morning stroll when Gopal and my brother were still on the bed. The fresh morning breeze and the ambience of the place made us awestruck.

Panoramic view from our hotel...

First rays of the morning sun fills one soul with joy...

We went to a nearby market place and chatted with the locals about their daily lifestyle, experience and hardship. The humbleness of the local residents touched our heart. Soon we were joined by my brother and Gopal. There we could see many boats who had halted the night before at Pakhiralay, leaving the ghat loaded with rations and their respective tourists one by one and sailing on the river. We kept on staring at the vast expanse of the river and the small boats sailing for a distant destination for as long as we could see them. Gradually, it felt like we were the only ones left in the village. We sat on the banks of the river for a long time relishing the tranquility of the mother nature. 

Don't quit. Sometimes the things you are hoping for come at unexpected times...

Be like a river. Be open. Flow...

Here, one thing I would like to mention is that we initially planned to hire a boat and go for local tourist spots in the river but the locals informed that most of the places including the forest department's museum was closed due to the ongoing pandemic situation and moreover the small boats were charging absurd high for sailing on the river. So, we had to drop the plan altogether.

An early morning walk is a blessing for the whole day...

We had our breakfast at Pakhiralay and checked out from our hotel at around 12 noon. There is not much one can do in Pakhiralay but each place comes with its own beauty and it entirely depends on the observer how he relishes it. We reached Canning railway station and had our lunch before heading home.

Roads less travelled...

(Picture Courtesy: Netin Baidya & Piangshuk Mukherjee)

Quotations: Collected