Pakhiralay: The Heart of Sunderban

The land where tiger roars......

The world is gradually trying to restore normalcy after being hit by the pandemic. No matter how difficult the situation is, life still finds its way. The new year brought new hope to our lives in terms of COVID-19 vaccination but still there is a long way to go and there is no room for complacency. So, maintaining all the necessary precautions we set forth for our short trip to Pakhiralay in the Sundarbans. I have been there twice before but never got the time to explore the place the way I wanted to, so we decided to visit there on 13th March, 2021. Through my experience I have figured out that sudden plans are far more easier to execute than long planned figured out ones. We sat for a discussion on 11th of March and set forth on 13th March.

Unexpected adventure makes for a better story...

As per plan we gathered at Garia Railway Station on 13th March, 2021 at around 5.45 AM. Our train to Canning was scheduled on 6.03 AM and without further hassle we reached Canning at 7.40 AM. This time our group comprised of myself, Piangshuk (my younger brother), Gopal and Netin. 

Team Pakhiralay...

The last time I visited Canning was in 2014 and the area has changed almost completely since then. Well built roads have replaced the murky patches and the area has also become very much congested. With the recent action plans put forward by the Govt. of West Bengal for the development of tourism in Sundarbans, the footfall has increased remarkably. People from different parts of the country have developed interest not only in tiger sighting but also on the lives of the tribal people living there. Hence, the overall development of the place as a major tourist destination is highly noticeable. Even in 2014, it used to be a very remote place with little or no resources to sustain upon. Very few people visited this part of West Bengal due to the lack of basic amenities and proper fooding and lodging facilities. The situation is completely different now. However, one has to practise his bargaining skills a lot here without which they have to pay through the nose for everything in Sundarbans.

Embrace the detours...

From Canning we boarded a magic car for Rs 40 each person which took us to Godkhali on the banks of the Matla river. In Godkhali we had our breakfast with Kochuri & Alur Torkari alongwith an omlette each and then crossed the mighty Matla river to reach Gosaba on the other side. One might be surprised to know that to cross Matla river we have to board a motor boat driven by two to three people and boarded by numerous. Even a few bikes and cycles are taken on these boats. The best part of riding these boats are that they cost per person Rs 2 even today and offer a pleasant journey across the river. On reaching the ghat of Gosaba we took a tempo traveller for Rs 25 per head. We were four people and the tempos need five people to start their journey. Needless to say after waiting for a long time we did not find any other single person going Pakhiralay. When we asked the driver the reason we didn't find any other person, he informed that the localites out there don't use any transport apart from their own bicycles. Hence, only tourists use these travellers to reach their destination. Very rarely tourists come on solo trip and that too in Sundarbans. Hence we had no option but to reserve the entire tempo by giving one fare extra to reach our destination, Pakhiralay village.

There are far better things ahead than the ones we leave behind...

After reaching Pakhiralay we started searching for a suitable abode. The driver of the Tempo helped us find one with reasonable rates matching our requirements. Hotel Apanjan. We did the necessary formalities before checking in. Here I would like to mention that being a proper tourist place and to some extent the monopoly nature of their business, majority of the staffs of the hotel are very much business minded and a little rude to say the least and one has to be a good negotiator to deal with them.

As the temperature outside was soaring high, we decided to postpone our plans until evening and enjoyed an afternoon siesta after finishing a sumptuous lunch. For lunch we had Bhetki thalis. They have meal system there & the extra dish has to be taken solo. For example, if we take a Bhetki Thali we will get Rice, Dal, Aloo Bhaji and a Veg curry as required basis and a single piece of Bhetki fish alongwith its curry for once. The prices are, not to mention, a little too high as compared to other places. In late afternoon that day, strong winds started blowing and the locals predicted an approaching storm. Pakhiralay is situated just beside the Matla river very near to the confluence of Bay of Bengal & Matla ( erstwhile the Ganga) so the intensity of the heavy winds can be easily felt. However, it didn't last long and in the evening the weather turned placid and we resumed exploring the place.

If my friends live up-to hundred years I hope to live hundred years minus one day so that I never have to leave without friends...

That night our hotel arranged for a tribal dance program for the guests who arrived on boats and we enjoyed it thoroughly. After completing our dinner we chatted for long hours reflecting on our day long activities and discussing about the following day plans. Next day, Netin and I woke up early. We went for a morning stroll when Gopal and my brother were still on the bed. The fresh morning breeze and the ambience of the place made us awestruck.

Panoramic view from our hotel...

First rays of the morning sun fills one soul with joy...

We went to a nearby market place and chatted with the locals about their daily lifestyle, experience and hardship. The humbleness of the local residents touched our heart. Soon we were joined by my brother and Gopal. There we could see many boats who had halted the night before at Pakhiralay, leaving the ghat loaded with rations and their respective tourists one by one and sailing on the river. We kept on staring at the vast expanse of the river and the small boats sailing for a distant destination for as long as we could see them. Gradually, it felt like we were the only ones left in the village. We sat on the banks of the river for a long time relishing the tranquility of the mother nature. 

Don't quit. Sometimes the things you are hoping for come at unexpected times...

Be like a river. Be open. Flow...

Here, one thing I would like to mention is that we initially planned to hire a boat and go for local tourist spots in the river but the locals informed that most of the places including the forest department's museum was closed due to the ongoing pandemic situation and moreover the small boats were charging absurd high for sailing on the river. So, we had to drop the plan altogether.

An early morning walk is a blessing for the whole day...

We had our breakfast at Pakhiralay and checked out from our hotel at around 12 noon. There is not much one can do in Pakhiralay but each place comes with its own beauty and it entirely depends on the observer how he relishes it. We reached Canning railway station and had our lunch before heading home.

Roads less travelled...

(Picture Courtesy: Netin Baidya & Piangshuk Mukherjee)

Quotations: Collected

Gangani: The Grand Canyon of West Bengal

 

Somewhere in Gangani...

Every new year comes with a new hope and prosperity in all our lives. It is the time when people take resolutions for a new beginning and try to discard old baggages of life. But, Alas!  Two Thousand Twenty is an exception. Like every other year this year too began with a lot of promises and hard thought resolutions but within a span of few months everything turned out to be a nightmare. The entire world came to a halt. Streets that used to be bottleneck congested with traffic & people, were left deserted. People were forced to remain locked inside the four walls and struggle for their existence. The whole world came under the detrimental effects of COVID-19 pandemic. It is true that good times give us happiness and memories but it is that one 'hard' time which teaches us a bunch of new lessons. The lesson to remain satisfied with mere subsistence. People from all spheres of life have been affected by the Covid-19 pandemic that has hit us hard. To be alive and going, is the biggest gift that we have during this pandemic. When stepping out of the house was a big 'NO', travelling for sure, seemed to be a distant dream. When most of the people turned to their gadgets seeking to forget what was going on outside I was wondering when I would be able to travel again. To be out and out honest, neither am I an indoor type of person nor am I a gadget freak, instead talking to my brother, family & friends, spending quality time with them and once and for all travelling at every given opportunity are the things that bring out the best in me. Hence, lockdown hit me hard for sure!

On our way to Bankura...

Don't think too much. Just do what makes you happy.

Travelling acts like a panacea to me. To me the definition of travelling is really simple, anything that breaks my normal routine life and brings me closer to mother nature is travelling for me. I can take all the hardship for the sake of travelling. In this regard I am blessed to have a supportive family especially my brother who encourages me in every possible way. However, before words and emotions drift me to some place else I would like to share with you all the experiences of my latest trip to Gangani: The Grand Canyon of West Bengal.

Different views of Gangani captured in our cameras...

When the lock down was in full swing, one day, Gopal came to our place and expressed his frustration about the present scenario. He told me that we should go for a trip to anywhere in Bengal come what may. It needs no mention that I was also fed up with my captive life. Gopal, my brother and I after hours of brainstorming finally reached to a conclusion that we should go for a trip to Gangani in West Midnapore. To add a little spice to the journey we decided to go for a road trip. Planning a trip is something but in order to execute the same one has to go though a lot of hardship. The first obstacle we faced was convincing our respective families to allow us for the trip as they were dead against bike trips. But our earnest requests and sheer determination riped us fruits and we finally succeeded in pursuing them. The next obstacle was to schedule the trip as every other Sunday I remain engaged with my never ending competitive exams. Last but not the least was to mentally prepare ourselves for the long journey which we believed would take a lot of effort and courage to overcome such distance in our bikes. However, our inner selves urged us to overcome all the difficulties and finally our journey was fixed on 30th December, 2020. This time our team comprised of myself, Gopal, Priya (Gopal's  younger sister) and Piangshuk (my younger brother).

On 30th December, 2020 we kicked off at around 6.30 AM. I have been to many places but this was something special. I realised what freedom means. Throughout the lock down I often used to compare our situation with that of the great Nelson Mandela who had spent nearly twenty five years in captivity for the sake of his country. That used to give me a lot of strength. Anyways, the road condition was excellent and without any further trouble we reached Madhavpur in Bankura at around 12.30 PM. Madhavpur is a small village near Jaipur forest range about which I had already mentioned in one of my earlier blogs.

The soul of a country lives in its villages...

Gopal's maternal uncle's house is in Madhavpur so it became our base for Gangani. We decided to stay in Madhavpur from 30th December, 2020 to 2nd January, 2021. That day after finishing our lunch we went to the nearby Bakashini forest for an afternoon stroll.

At Bakashini Forest with Gopal's cousins 

In Madhavpur, Soumen and Tantu (Gopal's Cousins) were our constant companions. It was because of them we never felt left out throughout our stay at the village. That day we were so tired with our day long bike journey that we had an early dinner and quickly retired for the day. Next day we were welcomed by a bright sunny day. Our plan was to visit Gangani which was our primary motive to visit Madhavpur. We kicked off our bikes at around 9.30 AM. The road leading to Gangani is a memorable one. Gangani is situated 35 kms from Madhavpur and it took us less than an hour to reach our destination in West Midnapore. 

Gangani: The Grand Canyon of Bengal

Gangani was created by the river Shilabati and reminds one about the Grand Canyon of U.S.A. Gangani is situated in the outskirts of Garbeta town of West Midnapore in West Bengal. It was a memorable experience all together to witness the giant cave like structures created by the river. We spent around two hours in Gangani exploring the place thoroughly.

Ariel view of Gangani.....

I am no bird nor a billionaire...Instead I am a free human being with an independent will...

Our next destination was Resort Banalata in Bankura. Banalata is a little more than 36 Kms from Gangani. The road leading to Banalata cuts through the pristine jungle of Jaipur forest. Being a jungle lover this was the best part of the journey for me. We halted every now and then to take pictures and enjoyed the ambience of the place.

Inside Jaipur Forest...

Take a walk in the forest and smell the wild air...

We reached Banalata at around 2.30 PM and ate a sumptuous lunch. It being the New Year's eve the place was over crowded and every body was in a party mood. We spent nearly two and half hours enjoying the atmosphere of the place. 

At Banalata on the New Year's Eve...

We returned Madhavpur at around 6.30 PM when it was already dark. To ride our bikes in that pitch black darkness counting only on our headlights was an unique experience altogether. That day after having our dinner we chatted for long hours reflecting on our experiences at Gangani. Next day, i.e 1st January, 2021 when we woke up we were surprised to see that the serenity of the adjacent Bakashini Forest was disturbed by numerous loud speakers brought in by the picnic parties from the adjacent areas. As per plan we reached Bakashini to select a spot for our picnic. Beauty lies in simplicity. I have been a part of numerous picnics before but the kind of warmth and love that was provided to us by Gopal's maternal uncle's family made that picnic all the more special to us. However the loud noise created by people there turned out to be a headache. 

Unless you are at a picnic, life is no picnic...

We thoroughly enjoyed our time at Bankura and before we could realize time flew by like a aeroplane & it was time to say goodbye. Here I would like to mention that this was my second visit to Gopal's maternal place but the kind of love and warmth that was showered to us by his maternal uncle and aunt was beggar description. The serenity of the place and the simplicity of the people made us feel so more connected to the place & we wish to visit the place again and again.

Our ordinary bike counting extraordinary miles....

We bid adieu to Madhavpur, kicking off our respective bikes at  12.30 PM on 2nd January, 2021 and reached Kolkata at around 7.30 PM that evening. This was one trip that we will cherish for life as it was not only a trip but an escape from the bondage of captivity. We were rejuvenated.

If you truly love nature you will find beauty everywhere... 

  

(Picture Courtesy: Piangshuk Mukherjee & Priya Roy)

** Quotations: Collected

Weekend Getaway: Nimpith and Kaikhali

Kaikhali in Sunderbans

Our plan to Nimpith and Kaikhali was totally an unexpected one. One of my dear friends who stays abroad for studies came home during the Christmas vacation and he loves travelling as much as I do. So we decided to travel to some remote place for a welcome change. My younger brother who is also a travel enthusiast and never miss an opportunity to travel joined us in the trip though he had other office-related priorities to tackle with, still he managed time.

According to the plan we left for Kaikhali on 3rd January 2020. Unfortunately on the day of our journey, the weather turned for the worst. It was raining cats and dogs. We had initially planned to leave in the early hours of 3rd January but we had to delay our journey for obvious reasons. Finally, when we reached the Jaynagar Mojilpur railway station which is the nearest railway station to Nimpith, it was already 11 A.M. Although there was a break in the rain for a while then, the weather changed and it started raining again. Finally, we reached the Ramakrishna Mission, Nimpith at around 12 Noon. The Maharaj who was in charge of the ashram requested us to have our lunch in the ashram. He enquired whether we had any staying plans. We nodded and he gave us the directions to the Kaikhali lodge. The Maharaj in fact, called the caretaker of the tourist lodge to intimate him of our arrival. After having our lunch we left for Kaikhali amidst the rain. Our destination was Kaikhali Tourist Lodge. The lodge is situated on the banks of the river Matla and the only lodge in the vicinity, so prior booking is a must.

  
We reached Kaikhali at around 3.30 PM. After completion of the check-in formalities, we went for a stroll. Here I would like to mention one thing that Kaikhali Tourist Lodge is the only in the area and all its bookings are done from Nimpith Ramakrishna Mission. We went to a tea shop and met a few local elderly people who shared their experiences and hardships living in Kaikhali. The livelihood of most of the people there is fishing.

On returning from the walk, we were served with hot tea and pakoras.  We were so exhausted from the day-long exertion that we went for a short power nap until dinner was served.

"The world is a book and those who do not travel read only a page..."

Few pictures from Kaikhali...

A temple at Kaikhali...

The next morning we were welcomed with a bright sunny day. My friend Sandipan was suffering from jetlag and had been awake all night. He was in a deep slumber. I and my brother went for a morning walk to the nearby village and the experience was wonderful.

"The further I travel, the closer I am to myself..."

"People forget years but remember moments..."

After roaming around for about an hour we had to rush back to our lodge as the checkout time was approaching. After checking out, lunch was served and it was a simple yet delicious one. We had rice, dal, one curry, chicken curry, and chatni. We left the place at around 12.30 PM in our previously booked auto with an enriched heart and charged up in spirit.

Our team to Kaikhali and Nimpit...

My personal feeling after visiting the place is that it's a great place for a one time visit. Also in order to find solace and feel the beauty of the place, one has to match our frequency of thinking as the place has only the bare minimum. It cannot promise you with the greatest of comfort but the greatest of peace, for sure. It has a friendly atmosphere but the attire of luxury has not yet reached the place. However, retracing our way back to the bare minimum is sometimes the order of the day.

Panoramic view of the Lodge...

Until next time... 

(Picture Courtesy: Piangshuk Mukherjee and Sandipan Mandol.)

Murshidabad : The Land of Nawabs

Hazarduari Palace

When it comes to visiting a place, it attracts me the same way honey attracts bees. This time instead of heading out for a typically adventurous trip we went on to find the essence of history by visiting the forgotten capital of Bengal, Murshidabad. When someone visit this place, he/she is bound to be moved by the magnificence of the unforgetable history of the place. It is the land of last independent Nawab of Bengal, Siraj-Ud-Daula. This time when we sat over a cup of tea to decide where to visit,  unanimously it came up to be a historical place and what else could be more historical than our very own old glory Murshidabad.

At the railway station...

Our journey began on 18th October, 2019. We boarded the heritage train Hazarduari Express from Chitpur viz. Kolkata railway station at 6:50 AM in the morning. This time around our team comprised of five members including myself & my younger brother.

The Heritage Hazarduari Express....

We reached Murshidabad on the same day at around 10 AM. From the railway station we boarded a horse pulled cart and reached our hotel Purity Mahal near Hazarduari Palace. It took us little longer than usual to check into our hotel as there was a technical glitch from OYO's end. After having a quick shower we went out for our lunch and local site-seeing. The first place we visited was Katra Mosque built by Murshid Quli Khan from 1723-24 AD.

In-front of the Katra Mosque...

Old ruins of Katra Mosque...

The Katra Mosque was built by Murshid Quli Khan, the first independent Nawab of Bengal. The town Murshidabad is named after him. This Mosque was built by bringing down many Hindu temples at that time as a result of which after the Mosque was built, the then Nawab, Murshid Quli Khan, built a temple for Lord Shiva just inside the boundary of the Mosque as a mark of his guilt feeling. One can find the same temple even today in perfect condition now looked after by the locals.

In addition to that, there is one more interesting fact associated with this mosque. The Nawab's last wish was to have his body buried under the staircase of the Mosque, so that each and everyone coming to that Mosque would have to walk over his body irrespective of their caste,creed or religion.This way he tried to eliminate the sins committed by him during his lifetime.

After spending quite a long time there, we left for the Jahankosha Cannon and Fauti Mosque. Here one thing I must say that although the Jahankosha cannon is well maintained by Archaeological Survey of India no heed has been paid towards the preservation of the Fauti Mosque and it is on the verge of collapsing. This Mosque was built by the Nawab Sarfaraz Khan in 1740 AD in only one day.

Jahankosha Cannon being closely scrutinized by Gopal....

Ruins of Fauti Mosque....

Our next destination was the house of famous banker Jagatseth. They say that at that time Jagat Seth was one of the richest person  not only in Bengal but also the entire India.The entire house has been transformed into a museum and opened for the visitors to experience the essence of Bengal's glorious past.

Amidst history time just flew by and soon we reached the last two destination of sight-seeing i.e., Jafarganj Graveyard and Nashipur Akhra.

Silver Chariot of Nashipur Akhra...

The Jafarganj Graveyard is infamous for the grave of Mir Jaffer & his successors. He is known to be the biggest traitor in the history of Bengal.

Mir Jaffar's graveyard...

Finally we called it a day and returned to our hotel as we were too tired and have had our share of fun that day. We had our dinner early that night and chatted for long hours reflecting on the day long journey.

Dinner time at Hotel Sagnik....

Next morning, i.e., on 19th October, 2019 we woke up early as our plan was to visit the other side of the river Bhagirathi. We booked one Toto and after finishing our breakfast we went for the other side of river Bhagirathi. First thing that we visited was Khushbu Bagh (Grave of Siraj-ud-Daula).

Kushbu Bagh...

A mosque inside Kushbu Bagh where Alibardi Khan used to read Namaaj...

After spending quite a few time in Kushbu Bagh we left for the Kiriteswari Temple, one of the piths of Sati's 51 pith. On our way back we also visited the Jagatbandhu Temple.

Inside Kiriteswari Temple....

Jagatbandhu Temple...

Our final destination on the other side of the river was the famous terracotta temple of Charbangla.

Charbangla Temple....

It was 2.30 PM by my watch when we left from the Charbangla Temple and it took us nearly one hour to reach the banks of river Bhagirathi. Finally we had our lunch at hotel Sagnik and retired for the noon as it was getting too hot. We told our Toto driver to reach our hotel by 5.30 PM as we wished to visit the light and sound show at Motijhil's Prakiti-tirtha. As per plan we reached Prakiti-tirtha at around 6.15 PM booked our respective tickets for the light and sound show.

Boulevard leading towards Motijhil....

Prakititirtha...

A surprise birthday party was arranged by other team members for me which made my day. We realized that our time at Murshidabad was coming to an end. Next morning, i.e., on 20th October, 2019 we visited the Hazaduari Museum and it took us nearly two hours to complete thoroughly each and every aspect of the museum.

Hazarduari Palace Museum...

Opposite to the gigantic Hazarduari Palace Museum there is an Imambara which remains closed for most of the time in the year. When the Imambara opens a big fair is arranged for the locals. People from far and distant visit the place.

Opposite to the Imambara...

We left Murshidabad enriched after realising the importance of history in our day to day life. Murshidabad is a place which will stay very close to my heart for as long as I live.

Surprise Birthday Cake arranged by other members of our group...

Our group to Murshidabad...

People without the knowledge of their past history, origin and culture is like a tree without its roots.

Azimunnisha's Grave

Until next time....

(Picture Courtesy: Piangshuk Mukherjee and Joydeep Ghosh)