Gangani: The Grand Canyon of West Bengal

 

Somewhere in Gangani...

Every new year comes with a new hope and prosperity in all our lives. It is the time when people take resolutions for a new beginning and try to discard old baggages of life. But, Alas!  Two Thousand Twenty is an exception. Like every other year this year too began with a lot of promises and hard thought resolutions but within a span of few months everything turned out to be a nightmare. The entire world came to a halt. Streets that used to be bottleneck congested with traffic & people, were left deserted. People were forced to remain locked inside the four walls and struggle for their existence. The whole world came under the detrimental effects of COVID-19 pandemic. It is true that good times give us happiness and memories but it is that one 'hard' time which teaches us a bunch of new lessons. The lesson to remain satisfied with mere subsistence. People from all spheres of life have been affected by the Covid-19 pandemic that has hit us hard. To be alive and going, is the biggest gift that we have during this pandemic. When stepping out of the house was a big 'NO', travelling for sure, seemed to be a distant dream. When most of the people turned to their gadgets seeking to forget what was going on outside I was wondering when I would be able to travel again. To be out and out honest, neither am I an indoor type of person nor am I a gadget freak, instead talking to my brother, family & friends, spending quality time with them and once and for all travelling at every given opportunity are the things that bring out the best in me. Hence, lockdown hit me hard for sure!

On our way to Bankura...

Don't think too much. Just do what makes you happy.

Travelling acts like a panacea to me. To me the definition of travelling is really simple, anything that breaks my normal routine life and brings me closer to mother nature is travelling for me. I can take all the hardship for the sake of travelling. In this regard I am blessed to have a supportive family especially my brother who encourages me in every possible way. However, before words and emotions drift me to some place else I would like to share with you all the experiences of my latest trip to Gangani: The Grand Canyon of West Bengal.

Different views of Gangani captured in our cameras...

When the lock down was in full swing, one day, Gopal came to our place and expressed his frustration about the present scenario. He told me that we should go for a trip to anywhere in Bengal come what may. It needs no mention that I was also fed up with my captive life. Gopal, my brother and I after hours of brainstorming finally reached to a conclusion that we should go for a trip to Gangani in West Midnapore. To add a little spice to the journey we decided to go for a road trip. Planning a trip is something but in order to execute the same one has to go though a lot of hardship. The first obstacle we faced was convincing our respective families to allow us for the trip as they were dead against bike trips. But our earnest requests and sheer determination riped us fruits and we finally succeeded in pursuing them. The next obstacle was to schedule the trip as every other Sunday I remain engaged with my never ending competitive exams. Last but not the least was to mentally prepare ourselves for the long journey which we believed would take a lot of effort and courage to overcome such distance in our bikes. However, our inner selves urged us to overcome all the difficulties and finally our journey was fixed on 30th December, 2020. This time our team comprised of myself, Gopal, Priya (Gopal's  younger sister) and Piangshuk (my younger brother).

On 30th December, 2020 we kicked off at around 6.30 AM. I have been to many places but this was something special. I realised what freedom means. Throughout the lock down I often used to compare our situation with that of the great Nelson Mandela who had spent nearly twenty five years in captivity for the sake of his country. That used to give me a lot of strength. Anyways, the road condition was excellent and without any further trouble we reached Madhavpur in Bankura at around 12.30 PM. Madhavpur is a small village near Jaipur forest range about which I had already mentioned in one of my earlier blogs.

The soul of a country lives in its villages...

Gopal's maternal uncle's house is in Madhavpur so it became our base for Gangani. We decided to stay in Madhavpur from 30th December, 2020 to 2nd January, 2021. That day after finishing our lunch we went to the nearby Bakashini forest for an afternoon stroll.

At Bakashini Forest with Gopal's cousins 

In Madhavpur, Soumen and Tantu (Gopal's Cousins) were our constant companions. It was because of them we never felt left out throughout our stay at the village. That day we were so tired with our day long bike journey that we had an early dinner and quickly retired for the day. Next day we were welcomed by a bright sunny day. Our plan was to visit Gangani which was our primary motive to visit Madhavpur. We kicked off our bikes at around 9.30 AM. The road leading to Gangani is a memorable one. Gangani is situated 35 kms from Madhavpur and it took us less than an hour to reach our destination in West Midnapore. 

Gangani: The Grand Canyon of Bengal

Gangani was created by the river Shilabati and reminds one about the Grand Canyon of U.S.A. Gangani is situated in the outskirts of Garbeta town of West Midnapore in West Bengal. It was a memorable experience all together to witness the giant cave like structures created by the river. We spent around two hours in Gangani exploring the place thoroughly.

Ariel view of Gangani.....

I am no bird nor a billionaire...Instead I am a free human being with an independent will...

Our next destination was Resort Banalata in Bankura. Banalata is a little more than 36 Kms from Gangani. The road leading to Banalata cuts through the pristine jungle of Jaipur forest. Being a jungle lover this was the best part of the journey for me. We halted every now and then to take pictures and enjoyed the ambience of the place.

Inside Jaipur Forest...

Take a walk in the forest and smell the wild air...

We reached Banalata at around 2.30 PM and ate a sumptuous lunch. It being the New Year's eve the place was over crowded and every body was in a party mood. We spent nearly two and half hours enjoying the atmosphere of the place. 

At Banalata on the New Year's Eve...

We returned Madhavpur at around 6.30 PM when it was already dark. To ride our bikes in that pitch black darkness counting only on our headlights was an unique experience altogether. That day after having our dinner we chatted for long hours reflecting on our experiences at Gangani. Next day, i.e 1st January, 2021 when we woke up we were surprised to see that the serenity of the adjacent Bakashini Forest was disturbed by numerous loud speakers brought in by the picnic parties from the adjacent areas. As per plan we reached Bakashini to select a spot for our picnic. Beauty lies in simplicity. I have been a part of numerous picnics before but the kind of warmth and love that was provided to us by Gopal's maternal uncle's family made that picnic all the more special to us. However the loud noise created by people there turned out to be a headache. 

Unless you are at a picnic, life is no picnic...

We thoroughly enjoyed our time at Bankura and before we could realize time flew by like a aeroplane & it was time to say goodbye. Here I would like to mention that this was my second visit to Gopal's maternal place but the kind of love and warmth that was showered to us by his maternal uncle and aunt was beggar description. The serenity of the place and the simplicity of the people made us feel so more connected to the place & we wish to visit the place again and again.

Our ordinary bike counting extraordinary miles....

We bid adieu to Madhavpur, kicking off our respective bikes at  12.30 PM on 2nd January, 2021 and reached Kolkata at around 7.30 PM that evening. This was one trip that we will cherish for life as it was not only a trip but an escape from the bondage of captivity. We were rejuvenated.

If you truly love nature you will find beauty everywhere... 

  

(Picture Courtesy: Piangshuk Mukherjee & Priya Roy)

** Quotations: Collected

Weekend Getaway: Nimpith and Kaikhali

Kaikhali in Sunderbans

Our plan to Nimpith and Kaikhali was totally an unexpected one. One of my dear friends who stays abroad for studies came home during the Christmas vacation and he loves travelling as much as I do. So we decided to travel to some remote place for a welcome change. My younger brother who is also a travel enthusiast and never miss an opportunity to travel joined us in the trip though he had other office-related priorities to tackle with, still he managed time.

According to the plan we left for Kaikhali on 3rd January 2020. Unfortunately on the day of our journey, the weather turned for the worst. It was raining cats and dogs. We had initially planned to leave in the early hours of 3rd January but we had to delay our journey for obvious reasons. Finally, when we reached the Jaynagar Mojilpur railway station which is the nearest railway station to Nimpith, it was already 11 A.M. Although there was a break in the rain for a while then, the weather changed and it started raining again. Finally, we reached the Ramakrishna Mission, Nimpith at around 12 Noon. The Maharaj who was in charge of the ashram requested us to have our lunch in the ashram. He enquired whether we had any staying plans. We nodded and he gave us the directions to the Kaikhali lodge. The Maharaj in fact, called the caretaker of the tourist lodge to intimate him of our arrival. After having our lunch we left for Kaikhali amidst the rain. Our destination was Kaikhali Tourist Lodge. The lodge is situated on the banks of the river Matla and the only lodge in the vicinity, so prior booking is a must.

  
We reached Kaikhali at around 3.30 PM. After completion of the check-in formalities, we went for a stroll. Here I would like to mention one thing that Kaikhali Tourist Lodge is the only in the area and all its bookings are done from Nimpith Ramakrishna Mission. We went to a tea shop and met a few local elderly people who shared their experiences and hardships living in Kaikhali. The livelihood of most of the people there is fishing.

On returning from the walk, we were served with hot tea and pakoras.  We were so exhausted from the day-long exertion that we went for a short power nap until dinner was served.

"The world is a book and those who do not travel read only a page..."

Few pictures from Kaikhali...

A temple at Kaikhali...

The next morning we were welcomed with a bright sunny day. My friend Sandipan was suffering from jetlag and had been awake all night. He was in a deep slumber. I and my brother went for a morning walk to the nearby village and the experience was wonderful.

"The further I travel, the closer I am to myself..."

"People forget years but remember moments..."

After roaming around for about an hour we had to rush back to our lodge as the checkout time was approaching. After checking out, lunch was served and it was a simple yet delicious one. We had rice, dal, one curry, chicken curry, and chatni. We left the place at around 12.30 PM in our previously booked auto with an enriched heart and charged up in spirit.

Our team to Kaikhali and Nimpit...

My personal feeling after visiting the place is that it's a great place for a one time visit. Also in order to find solace and feel the beauty of the place, one has to match our frequency of thinking as the place has only the bare minimum. It cannot promise you with the greatest of comfort but the greatest of peace, for sure. It has a friendly atmosphere but the attire of luxury has not yet reached the place. However, retracing our way back to the bare minimum is sometimes the order of the day.

Panoramic view of the Lodge...

Until next time... 

(Picture Courtesy: Piangshuk Mukherjee and Sandipan Mandol.)

Murshidabad : The Land of Nawabs

Hazarduari Palace

When it comes to visiting a place, it attracts me the same way honey attracts bees. This time instead of heading out for a typically adventurous trip we went on to find the essence of history by visiting the forgotten capital of Bengal, Murshidabad. When someone visit this place, he/she is bound to be moved by the magnificence of the unforgetable history of the place. It is the land of last independent Nawab of Bengal, Siraj-Ud-Daula. This time when we sat over a cup of tea to decide where to visit,  unanimously it came up to be a historical place and what else could be more historical than our very own old glory Murshidabad.

At the railway station...

Our journey began on 18th October, 2019. We boarded the heritage train Hazarduari Express from Chitpur viz. Kolkata railway station at 6:50 AM in the morning. This time around our team comprised of five members including myself & my younger brother.

The Heritage Hazarduari Express....

We reached Murshidabad on the same day at around 10 AM. From the railway station we boarded a horse pulled cart and reached our hotel Purity Mahal near Hazarduari Palace. It took us little longer than usual to check into our hotel as there was a technical glitch from OYO's end. After having a quick shower we went out for our lunch and local site-seeing. The first place we visited was Katra Mosque built by Murshid Quli Khan from 1723-24 AD.

In-front of the Katra Mosque...

Old ruins of Katra Mosque...

The Katra Mosque was built by Murshid Quli Khan, the first independent Nawab of Bengal. The town Murshidabad is named after him. This Mosque was built by bringing down many Hindu temples at that time as a result of which after the Mosque was built, the then Nawab, Murshid Quli Khan, built a temple for Lord Shiva just inside the boundary of the Mosque as a mark of his guilt feeling. One can find the same temple even today in perfect condition now looked after by the locals.

In addition to that, there is one more interesting fact associated with this mosque. The Nawab's last wish was to have his body buried under the staircase of the Mosque, so that each and everyone coming to that Mosque would have to walk over his body irrespective of their caste,creed or religion.This way he tried to eliminate the sins committed by him during his lifetime.

After spending quite a long time there, we left for the Jahankosha Cannon and Fauti Mosque. Here one thing I must say that although the Jahankosha cannon is well maintained by Archaeological Survey of India no heed has been paid towards the preservation of the Fauti Mosque and it is on the verge of collapsing. This Mosque was built by the Nawab Sarfaraz Khan in 1740 AD in only one day.

Jahankosha Cannon being closely scrutinized by Gopal....

Ruins of Fauti Mosque....

Our next destination was the house of famous banker Jagatseth. They say that at that time Jagat Seth was one of the richest person  not only in Bengal but also the entire India.The entire house has been transformed into a museum and opened for the visitors to experience the essence of Bengal's glorious past.

Amidst history time just flew by and soon we reached the last two destination of sight-seeing i.e., Jafarganj Graveyard and Nashipur Akhra.

Silver Chariot of Nashipur Akhra...

The Jafarganj Graveyard is infamous for the grave of Mir Jaffer & his successors. He is known to be the biggest traitor in the history of Bengal.

Mir Jaffar's graveyard...

Finally we called it a day and returned to our hotel as we were too tired and have had our share of fun that day. We had our dinner early that night and chatted for long hours reflecting on the day long journey.

Dinner time at Hotel Sagnik....

Next morning, i.e., on 19th October, 2019 we woke up early as our plan was to visit the other side of the river Bhagirathi. We booked one Toto and after finishing our breakfast we went for the other side of river Bhagirathi. First thing that we visited was Khushbu Bagh (Grave of Siraj-ud-Daula).

Kushbu Bagh...

A mosque inside Kushbu Bagh where Alibardi Khan used to read Namaaj...

After spending quite a few time in Kushbu Bagh we left for the Kiriteswari Temple, one of the piths of Sati's 51 pith. On our way back we also visited the Jagatbandhu Temple.

Inside Kiriteswari Temple....

Jagatbandhu Temple...

Our final destination on the other side of the river was the famous terracotta temple of Charbangla.

Charbangla Temple....

It was 2.30 PM by my watch when we left from the Charbangla Temple and it took us nearly one hour to reach the banks of river Bhagirathi. Finally we had our lunch at hotel Sagnik and retired for the noon as it was getting too hot. We told our Toto driver to reach our hotel by 5.30 PM as we wished to visit the light and sound show at Motijhil's Prakiti-tirtha. As per plan we reached Prakiti-tirtha at around 6.15 PM booked our respective tickets for the light and sound show.

Boulevard leading towards Motijhil....

Prakititirtha...

A surprise birthday party was arranged by other team members for me which made my day. We realized that our time at Murshidabad was coming to an end. Next morning, i.e., on 20th October, 2019 we visited the Hazaduari Museum and it took us nearly two hours to complete thoroughly each and every aspect of the museum.

Hazarduari Palace Museum...

Opposite to the gigantic Hazarduari Palace Museum there is an Imambara which remains closed for most of the time in the year. When the Imambara opens a big fair is arranged for the locals. People from far and distant visit the place.

Opposite to the Imambara...

We left Murshidabad enriched after realising the importance of history in our day to day life. Murshidabad is a place which will stay very close to my heart for as long as I live.

Surprise Birthday Cake arranged by other members of our group...

Our group to Murshidabad...

People without the knowledge of their past history, origin and culture is like a tree without its roots.

Azimunnisha's Grave

Until next time....

(Picture Courtesy: Piangshuk Mukherjee and Joydeep Ghosh)